Georges Barbier 1882-1932
George Barbier: The Birth of Art Deco edited by Barbara Martorelli, Marsilio, 2009
Biography
Georges Barbier was a French illustrator, painter and designer, most known for being the first creators of Art Deco. Barbier was born in 1882, in the seaport village of Nantes where he resided until 1908 when he moved to Paris to begin his studies. He attended I'École des Beaux-arts in the atelier of the painter, Jean-Paul Laurens (Majer). After finishing his studies, Barbier began his career by creating illustrations of Art Deco, the most popular art movement of the time. He began illustrating for the elite fashion journal, Journal de Dames et Des Modes. From there he began establishing himself as a designer and illustrator in the industry (Alford-Stegemeyer). After the Journal de Dames et Des Modes publication closed, Barbiers began writing for other French fashion journals such as La Gazette de bon ton (Majer). Barbier was commissioned to illustrate for design houses such as Worth, Lavin, and Poiret (Alford-Stegemeyer). As a member of the Société des artistes décorateurs, Barbier designed jewelry, glass, and wallpaper (Majer). After World War I Barbier began designing for the theatre and worked on the sets for Follies Bergére in France, and Valention's 1924 film, Monsieur Beaucaire. Barbier died in 1932, at the age of 50, still in the peak of his profession (Alford-Stegemeyer).
Critical Analysis
Georges Barbier's art deco illustrations definitely reflect the zeitgeist of the 1920's. Women were becoming more rebellious: wearing revealing garments, cutting off their hair into shorter styles, and partied fabulously. All of which would have been provocative for the previous generations. Barbier's style exemplified these trends into clothing, creating slim, glamorous, and 'sexy' designs. The garments he designed were meant for the extravagant lifestyle that every young woman wanted at the time, wanted. The models in the illustrations are shown partying in elegant venues, being serenaded men, and participating in luxurious activities. Barbier made the clothes look attractive, and gave them the idea that if they dressed like them they could live the same glamorous lifestyle. The art deco aesthetics designs that he had put out there broke so many of the barriers set from previous generations. It invented the use of sex appeal through clothing by allowing women to dress more provocatively as opposed to previous fashions.
The art deco style was influenced by the major designers of the time, the couture houses of Vionnet, Worth, Patou, and Lanvin were the biggest inspirations for fashion in the 1920's. Vionnet was the inventor of the bias-cut, popularized beautiful drapery and subtle colors which are a few of the biggest trends in art deco (Langley, 21). Many of Barbier's illustrations incorporated dresses with those cuts and draping. These designers also brought out the trend of embellishments, putting fringes, lavish laces, and intricate beading onto dresses. They have also brought the waistline and neckline down, and created many backless ensembles. These were the iconic elements that have made the art deco style so popular in the 1920's. Georges Barbier has once stated in Journal des Dames et des Modes, "Elegance resides in perfect harmony of thoughts, words, acts, gestures, attitudes and costume. It is through costume that elegance expresses itself most quickly. The elegant person should not wear anything too conspicuous or extreme" (Smith, 4). This quote expresses the elegance that his illustrations possess, from their poise to the way the dresses flow and fit them.
The art deco style was influenced by the major designers of the time, the couture houses of Vionnet, Worth, Patou, and Lanvin were the biggest inspirations for fashion in the 1920's. Vionnet was the inventor of the bias-cut, popularized beautiful drapery and subtle colors which are a few of the biggest trends in art deco (Langley, 21). Many of Barbier's illustrations incorporated dresses with those cuts and draping. These designers also brought out the trend of embellishments, putting fringes, lavish laces, and intricate beading onto dresses. They have also brought the waistline and neckline down, and created many backless ensembles. These were the iconic elements that have made the art deco style so popular in the 1920's. Georges Barbier has once stated in Journal des Dames et des Modes, "Elegance resides in perfect harmony of thoughts, words, acts, gestures, attitudes and costume. It is through costume that elegance expresses itself most quickly. The elegant person should not wear anything too conspicuous or extreme" (Smith, 4). This quote expresses the elegance that his illustrations possess, from their poise to the way the dresses flow and fit them.
Influence on Future Trends
Georges Barbier is an icon for introducing so many of the art deco styles through his illustrations featured in fashion journals. By drawing out these dresses so beautifully he had given them a model and spirit that people reading the journals were able to feel when observing them. The trends that he has incorporated in his designs still influence the today's fashion. The halter style that was huge in the 1990's recently had a comeback, many stores such as Forever 21 or Brandy Melville have kick started the trend again. The low V-cut with cinched waist style has always stayed in style, recently there have them popular on rompers and jumpsuits. Backless ensembles are still popular today, the elegance of this staple have always been on prom dresses, and even things more casual like blouses. The Roaring 20's were an influential point of American History, the art deco style was iconic to those times, once you hear the 1920's art deco is one of the major staples that you associate it with. The style will always be elegant, romantic and classic, which are qualities that people will always find themselves looking for in clothing. Recently a garment inspired by biggest art deco aesthetics was a dress designed by Adam Selman and worn by pop music artist Rihanna (Stebner). The dress was slinky, donned intricate beading, and was backless all elements that Barbier had popularized through his designs. Rihanna also accessorizes in similar embellishments from the 20's, a head piece and large gem earrings. This modernized version of a 20's dress proves that this style is still very much alive in fashion today. Vogue's Nick Remsen comments on the recent art deco influence, stating "It’s exciting to see a season pulling so creatively from history; none of these looks or collections feels at all dated. And though they can certainly trace some of their roots to a time (or times) long gone, the resurfacing of these themes illustrates that fashion needs the past—more as a fuel, rather than elixir—as it jets forever into the future" (Vogue). This quote proves how the art deco movement will continue to inspire generations of designers, and that these elements will forever be timeless.
Works Cited
Alford, Holly, and Anne Stegemeyer. "Georges Barbier." Who's Who in Fashion. 5th ed. USA: Fairchild, 2010. 28. Print.
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Smith, Arthur. Chevalier Du Bracelet: George Barbier and His Illustrated Works. Toronto: U of Toronto Library, 2013. 4. Print.
Stebner, Beth. "Rihanna’s 2014 CFDA Look: A Dress Made of Swarovski Crystals — and Not Much Else ." NY Daily News. NY Daily News, 3 June 2014. Web. 19 Aug. 2014.
The Swing, 1923 . Fine Art. Encyclopædia Britannica ImageQuest. Web. 25 Aug 2014. http://quest.eb.com/#/search/108_270348/1/108_270348/cite
At Polo, 1920-29 . Fine Art. Encyclopædia Britannica ImageQuest. Web. 25 Aug 2014.
http://quest.eb.com/#/search/108_275609/1/108_275609/cite
The Backless Dress, engraved by Henri Reidel, 1920 . Fine Art. Encyclopædia Britannica ImageQuest. Web. 26 Aug 2014. http://quest.eb.com/#/search/108_275674/1/108_275674/cite
Farewell, engraved by Georges Barbier, 1920 . Fine Art. Encyclopædia Britannica ImageQuest. Web. 25 Aug 2014. http://quest.eb.com/#/search/108_268801/1/108_268801/cite
Incantation, illustration for 'Gazette du Bon Ton', 1922 . Fine Art. Encyclopædia Britannica ImageQuest. Web. 26 Aug 2014. http://quest.eb.com/#/search/108_268866/1/108_268866/cite
The Judgement of Paris, 1920-30 . Fine Art. Encyclopædia Britannica ImageQuest. Web. 23 Aug 2014. http://quest.eb.com/#/search/108_279992/1/108_279992/cite
Lovers / Fire / Georges Barbier. Fine Art. Encyclopædia Britannica ImageQuest. Web. 22 Aug 2014. http://quest.eb.com/#/search/109_140878/1/109_140878/cite
Majer, Michele. "Barbier, Georges." The Berg Fashion Library. The Berg Fashion Library, 2005. Web. 23 Aug. 2014. <http://www.bergfashionlibrary.com/view/bazf/bazf00056.xml>.
The Purchase (pen, ink and w/c on paper) . pen, ink and watercolour on paper. Encyclopædia Britannica ImageQuest. Web. 26 Aug 2014. http://quest.eb.com/#/search/108_4074840/1/108_4074840/cite
Remsen, Nick. "The Not-So-Secret Influence of Cubism and Art Deco During Milan Fashion Week — Vogue." Vogue. Vogue, 24 Feb. 2014. Web. 09 Sept. 2014. <http://www.vogue.com/866619/the-not-so-secret-influence-of-cubism-and-art-deco-during-milan-fashion-week/>.
Restaurant / Georges Barbier.. Fine Art. Encyclopædia Britannica ImageQuest. Web. 23 Aug 2014. http://quest.eb.com/#/search/109_141387/1/109_141387/cite
Smith, Arthur. Chevalier Du Bracelet: George Barbier and His Illustrated Works. Toronto: U of Toronto Library, 2013. 4. Print.
Stebner, Beth. "Rihanna’s 2014 CFDA Look: A Dress Made of Swarovski Crystals — and Not Much Else ." NY Daily News. NY Daily News, 3 June 2014. Web. 19 Aug. 2014.
The Swing, 1923 . Fine Art. Encyclopædia Britannica ImageQuest. Web. 25 Aug 2014. http://quest.eb.com/#/search/108_270348/1/108_270348/cite